Igor:
The "stuff" on the back serves the sole purpose of holding the crotch strap in place, nothing more. If the waist band is snug enough and shaped correctly, it will not rotate around the wearer's waist because it would be wider left to right, and narrower, front to back. It also needs to be located in the right place.
The cross-section of the human waist is not a circle for most people, it looks more like this:
- wiast.jpg (3.32 KiB) Viewed 6009 times
As you can imagine, a rigid metal belt that's oval in shape will not rotating around that oval at all, if it's snug.
Vertical movement is hampered by the wearer's waist taper, assuming the belt is located in the right place. It should be fitted to the narrowest point of the wearer's waist, as that will prevent vertical movement - their body is in the way. Like so:
- waist2.jpg (17.07 KiB) Viewed 6009 times
It can be fitted lower and in that case the crotch strap and butt-chains/wire will hold the belt down on the taper, thus preventing vertical movement in both directions. However, the closer to the hip bones the waist band is, the more likely there will be damage to the flesh on the hip bones over time, or at least numbness in the outside skin. This is why I would fit the waist band at the narrowest point of the waist - it can be tighter because it's squishy inside, it doesn't rub on the rib cage or the hips, and is located right at a bend point allowing some movement, the definition of "some" being depending on how the crotch strap is attached at the front - rigidly or able to pivot.
Fitting the waist band requires trial and error, and when I received my husband's belt from dhgate (Review:
viewtopic.php?f=18&t=196) I put a lot of effort into getting the waist band sized, positioned and shaped correctly - I didn't just wrap it around him and lock him in and call it a day. I adjusted the dimensions so that it was snug, to where I could slip two fingers between the side and his flesh. Each time I took it on and off, I manually reshaped it to fit by curling it and pressing it against my thigh, so the waist band sitting on the table locked, it closely resembled the shape in the first picture on this post. Once I got it right, I installed it and locked it, and he wore just the waist band for the rest of the day and overnight. The next morning we discussed how it felt, and I made some minor shaping adjustments to the sides, then added the crotch strap, adjusting the length as necessary, then put the two chains back on, then test-fitted the whole thing.
With the waist band in the right place and the right snugness, the crotch strap/chains can also be adjusted for a snug fit and those too would stay.
At the end of each month since the belt arrived, I've shortened the length of the waist belt by one hole per month, so with December's adjustment being don at this point, the waist belt is about two inches smaller than it started out with back in August and now it's really snug - I can no longer slip my fingers between the belt and his flesh. It does not rotate, or move vertically, at all. It can't. In a sense, it's part of him now. The memory of the waistband adjusted to his body, and his body adjusted to it.
With the waist band being that snug, the pair of chains in the back could be made a little tighter thus putting some tension on the crotch strap for a really snug, but comfortable fit. It doesn't shift around or wiggle.
Based solely on my experience, I don't think it matters much whether there are two chains, one chains, or a wire, at least nowhere near as much as how it all fits together. As long as the waist band is fitted correctly, the other parts can have the appropriate tension for the wearer and be comfortable yet snug.
With the appropriate tension, the single chain or wire would be firmly located between the wearer's butt-cheeks and thus, not movable left to right, at least not very much. Dual-chains don't put anything between the butt cheeks, but because they form a triangle, which is a geometric structure, the same applies because with the right tension on those components, the very bottom of the crotch strap won't be moving around much at all.
Stainless wire of this diameter, insulated or not, will stretch over time, because they're woven so you'll need a way of making it tighter over time with long-term wearing. Not an issue for a belt that's occasionally worn for kinky play or decoration, but for a belt that's worn 24/7 will require some period adjustments to the wire length. A way of preventing that is to use a wire that's designed to endure far more tension - such as a lower frequency wire-wound bass or piano string. With the low tensions associated with chastity belts, they likely won't stretch at all however they aren't stainless so they're subject to tarnish and possibly rust, especially rubbing against the human body.
Usually, in either case, the top of the crotch strap is attached to the front of the belt with more than one connection, thus there is a resistance to pivoting. My husband's belt is locked by a center post, but there are two screws/locking nuts on each side and three holes in the top of the crotch strap to try and resist movement. To be honest, that designed sucked so I replaced the two screws/nuts with two stainless round stand-offs closer in diameter to the holes in the crotch strap, which gave it more resistance to pivoting. Depending on your needs, some pivoting might be desirable, in other cases, no. I wanted my husband's belt to be as rigidly shaped as possible because part of the reason why he's wearing the belt is to restrict movement. You may not have the same requirement.
With my husband's waist band being two inches smaller than we started out with in August, it can be worn under tight jeans without issue. Low-waisted jeans obviously expose the waistband to the world and high-waisted jeans just need to be sized so that the waistband of the jeans has enough room for the locking mechanism of the belt's waistband. The two inch "shrinkage" we did over the past four months allows for my husband's already-owned jeans to fit just fine, except for one pair.
I purchased a two-chain model because I wanted to allow him to use the bathroom during the day while I'm at work, however because my husband is male despite his presentation (and "tucks" the front bits underneath to wear the female chastity belt) he cannot pee while wearing the belt so early on I figured out I had to remove the belt twice a day to allow him to pee/poop and shower. Once in the morning, once in the evening.
All of the above is dependent on the wearer's body shape of course and different bodies may require different efforts to get the right fitment.
Regarding plugs... My husband's belt also had a stainless plug that I designed, machined, and inserted
. It's a gumdrop shape on top, with a narrow stem with an oval base to prevent it from going inside. It's not attached to the belt for the reasons I stated earlier. It's heavy enough that even the slightest movement of his body causes internal sensations, and it started out as a solid piece of 316 stainless. Other than his twice-a-day bathroom/shower breaks, he's belted and plugged 24/7. It doesn't matter if he's doing housework, sleeping, cooking, planting, or whatever. The exception will be if he's ill and will need to use the bathroom more frequently than twice a day. This is my plan for avoiding stink points - not having any stink of any kind touch the belt other than the normal perspiration that occurs behind the silicone liner that's part of the belt. That comes off with ordinary soap and water, and is cleaned when the belt is removed before he showers or uses the bathroom. That's the house rule - clean the belt first, then clean yourself.
Unrelated to this thread but maybe interesting to some... I machined the shaft of the stainless anal plug to be hollow, and one of these has been fitted inside:
- pagervibe.JPG (10.98 KiB) Viewed 6009 times
And on the front of the belt, between the crotch strap and the adjustable, removable shield, there are three of these in a row, vertically:
- coinvibe.jpg (16 KiB) Viewed 6009 times
Those are wired to a wifi-capable dual-relay board that neatly fits inside a radio shack plastic project box with a lithium battery and charging circuit board, with an x-bee wifi radio module. I attached a small d-ring to the outside of the box which I purchased from Home Depot. I purchased the electrics off eBay. It recharges through a jack that I plug into a 12V 2A "wall wart" type power supply I bought somewhere local.
Why?
Because anytime I want, from my smartphone or an ordinary web browser, I can turn on and off either or both vibrators, and buzz him silly for my amusement. The lithium battery will power the radio part for almost two days if I don't vibrate him, about 6 hours if I vibrate the front only, 9 hours if I vibrate the rear only, and 4 hours if I turn on both continuously.
Since I can watch the interior off my house remotely on numerous ip-based webcams that are also wifi, I can peek in while at work, buzz him silly, and watch the results. I find that more enjoyable than playing candy-crush when I have a moment at work devoid of meetings.
As I mentioned above many of the chinese belts have two d-rings with captive hooks. When you're adjusting the waist belt, those have to come off because the adjustment screws go through them. The last time they were off my husband's belt, I removed one of the hooks. The other remains to clip onto the wifi buzzy thing. I occasionally use the "spare" d-ring as a mounting point for an insulated 1/8" stainless wire - a tether - and I can padlock that one. The other end attaches to a d-ring mounted on my dining room wall into a stud. I made three tethers - six foot, 25 foot, and 50 foot. The shortest keeps my husband in the dining room, but is long enough he can sit by the wall. The longest gives him full access to the first floor, but prevents him from going all the way down the basement stairs or all the way up the stairs to the second floor. The middle tether keeps him in the dining room and kitchen, and about six feet into the living room but not enough that he can reach any of the furniture.
I'm so mean
Jake:
Pinching can be eliminated by designing the crotch portion of the belt (plate or strap) correctly and sadly, as Pyra has pointed out on another thread, most belts are not designed correctly in this area. They have slots just big enough to invite the labia into the "scissor" and aren't tapered, the outer edges aren't rounded and the silicone only helps when it's new because as there's wear the silicone gets thinner and thinner where the sharp metal edge is.
Contouring the part isn't very difficult - that's basic metal-working skills at play. Simply beat the part with a slightly rounded wooden mallet over a leather bag full of sand or shot, and the metal will take on a new, more desirable shape.
Eliminate the sharp edges is more work, but there are a couple ways of doing this. The first method is to make the part slightly larger than desired, and fold over the edges onto itself using a bead roller, or hammering them over an anvil, maybe both depending how it turns out. If the metal is very thin, the fold will not be as around as desired and more of a blunt edge, and that can be fixed during the folding process by inserting a stainless wire inside the fold and encapsulating as you complete the fold. The wire can be solid, or aircraft cable type. What matters is that there is something there for the fold to form around.
Another way to form a round edge is far more complicated, but has a really nice appearance. That's to take a stainless rod and machine a slot down it's length, then hammer-form it to fit the contour of the crotch part. That can be epoxied on or spot-welded on, depending on what you have available. Though I must say, having tried this myself, machining a 1/32" slot down a foot-long length of 316L stainless that's only 1/8" diameter isn't easy. That's why folding, maybe with a stainless wire inside the fold, is likely to be more appealing.
The scissor effect of the crotch part comes from the slots. I don't have that issue with my husband's belt because he tucks tightly and always wears a panty underneath his belt. Eventually, I will be remaking the crotch part (with folded wired edges) and the plate will be solid - because I will continue to remove his belt twice a day so he can use the clean the belt, shower, and use the bathroom since there won't be any pee slots.
For a female, I think designing the crotch part with a large oval and using standoffs for a vented cover on top of that with enough distance between the two to prevent pinching and scissoring might be a great solution. That top cover shouldn't be just a curved plate if you want to prevent masturbation - it should be folded along the top, bottom and both sides to form a contoured "box", to keep fingers, q-tips and other things completely out. If it's removable, that would exposed the vagina without removing the belt if that's interesting to anyone, and if it's not, well, that's that. But at least the pink bits that protrude won't get caught in the belt any longer and be more comfortable to wear. The actual crotch strap would have to have enough width around that oval, i.e. around the vagina, to not dig in either. Folding those edges will require some clever metalworking if it's to be made so that it doesn't dig into the points where the legs meet the crotch area. Of course, contoured for comfort.