To make my definition of "covering" obvious, it's the black stuff in this photo:
- Funny-chastity-belt-for-women.jpg (56.24 KiB) Viewed 6440 times
Because the tiles are vinyl, they can be temporarily made more flexible by heat. I cut two of them into strips that match the width of my husband's waist belt using a box cutter, then removed his crotch strap and traced that out on another tile, cutting that out with an X-acto knife. That was a bit of a pain to trace since the crotch part is curved. Once I held the pieces of tile I cut to the actual belt, adjusted and trimmed as necessary, I laid them flat on a cookie sheet and dropped that onto one of the steam radiators in my home to be "heated" and thus, softened.
After a while they were quite flexible, and I removed my husband's belt and took off the beat up silicone liner and replaced it with the vinyl tile cutouts after removing the backing sheet that protects the glue. They stuck, marginally, but once they cool down they'll stick better as some of the tackiness of the glue will return. I kept them in place as they cooled by putting a piece of flannel around my husband's waist and over his crotch then putting the belt on top of that. The tightness of the belt ensures it will be in the shape that it needs to be, and the cooling of the vinyl will take that shape. The flannel was to prevent burning my husband.
It didn't take long for it too cool off enough to where the vinyl was as rigid as it was originally, and it sticks pretty nice. It's not terribly flexible but enough that the belt can be opened and closed without issue. We're on day three of the vinyl lined belt and the insides still stick.
Another option is to make your own silicone liner, using GE silicone weatherstripping out of a tube, a chalk gun, naptha, and acrylic dye of whatever color(s) you want to make this.
Take the belt entirely apart and lay the pieces you're going to coat on a piece of glass. Put about 1/3-1/2 teaspoon of acrylic paint into a plastic dixie cup and pour in just enough naptha to cover the bottom of the dixie cup. Add to that four to five squeezes of the silicone from the chalk gun, and mix that together thoroughly with a popsicle stick. Once the color is consistent, it's mixed well enough for application. Using the same popsicle stick, spread it out over an area of the belt, making sure a little bit flows over the sides of the glass. Mix more batches, cover more of the belt. Once it's completely covered, let it cure for 24 hours then take it and the metal belt off the glass with a metal paint scraper and flip it over, and continue the effort on the other side. You can cover just the edges and make them straight with a box cutter, or, cover the entire other side to fully encase the stainless.
Once that's cured for 24 hours, you can carefully slice off any undesirable irregularities, drips, runs, etc. The less naptha you use, the less the mixed batch will run but also the less color consistency you'll have in the end batch to batch.
Cutting a liner out of neoprene was discussed elsewhere, that's a great material to work with but it's also fairly expensive as far as fabrics go. One could use vulcanized rubber by purchasing a set of automotive floormats that are straight rubber and don't have wildly deep patterns or fuzzy treads on top. Those will have to be spray-glued on to keep them in place.
A friend of mine gave me leftover rubber from an old conveyor belt, after she snipped out a couple of pieces for a project she's working on, so I may give that a try as well. It's a lot thicker though - about 1/4" and is very stiff compared to other materials.
Enjoy and happy belt making!
